I honestly didn't think I'd get so excited about tarred nylon twine, but here we are. It's one of those things you don't realize you need until you're out in the woods or trying to fix something in the backyard and regular string just keeps slipping or fraying. If you've ever spent time in the bushcraft community or worked on a commercial fishing boat, you probably already know it as "bank line," and you know exactly why it's a staple.
Most people reach for paracord when they need a reliable rope, and don't get me wrong, 550 cord has its place. But for the day-to-day tasks where paracord is just too bulky or too "stretchy," tarred nylon twine steps in and handles the business perfectly. It's thinner, grittier, and has a personality all its own.
What Makes it So Special?
You might be wondering what the "tarred" part actually means. It's not like they're dipping the string into a bucket of hot asphalt like you'd see on a road crew. Instead, the nylon fibers are treated with a specialized coating—often a coal tar or a synthetic resin—that soaks into the strands.
This treatment does a few key things. First, it makes the twine incredibly resistant to UV rays. If you leave a piece of regular white nylon string out in the sun for a summer, it'll eventually turn brittle and snap like a cracker. Tarred nylon twine just sits there and laughs at the sun. It also keeps the twine from rotting or absorbing too much water, which is why it's the gold standard for trotlines and fishing nets.
But the real magic is in the texture. Because it's "tacky" (not quite sticky, but it has some grip), it holds knots like a champion. If you tie a knot in regular nylon, it often wants to slide open. With tarred twine, once you cinched it down, it stays put. It's almost like the twine is helping you hold the knot in place while you work.
Breaking Down the Sizes
One thing that confuses people at first is the sizing. You won't see "1/8 inch" or "quarter inch" on the label. Instead, you'll see numbers like #12, #18, or #36.
If you're just starting out, #18 tarred nylon twine is the "Goldilocks" size. It has a breaking strength of around 160 pounds, which is plenty for most tasks, but it's still thin enough to fit in a pocket or a small survival tin.
If you're doing heavier work, like lashing together a camp chair or building a more permanent structure, #36 is the way to go. It's significantly thicker and can hold upwards of 300 pounds. On the flip side, #9 or #12 is great for delicate work, like repairing a net or sewing up a heavy canvas bag.
Real-World Uses You'll Actually Care About
I keep a roll of this stuff in my truck, one in my garage, and a small "bank line" wrap in my hiking pack. Here's why it's more useful than you'd think.
Around the House and Garden
If you're a gardener, you know the struggle of trying to tie up tomato plants or vines. Cheap garden twine usually rots away before the season is even over. Using tarred nylon twine for a trellis is a game-changer. It's dark, so it blends into the shadows of the plants, and it won't snap when the wind catches those heavy vines.
I've also used it to fix handles on tools. If a wooden handle starts to get a bit slick or has a small crack, you can do a "common whipping" (a type of tight wrap) with some #18 twine. The tarred coating gives you a fantastic grip, even when your hands are sweaty or muddy.
Bushcraft and Camping
This is where the twine really shines. When you're out in the woods, you don't always want to use your expensive paracord for every little thing. Tarred nylon twine is perfect for making "guy lines" for a tarp or lashing a tripod over a fire.
The best part? Because it's so thin, you can carry 100 feet of it in the same space that 25 feet of paracord would take up. It's also much easier to use for "bank lines"—setting up a fishing line from the side of a river—hence the common nickname. It doesn't get tangled as easily as thin monofilament, and it's way tougher against submerged logs or rocks.
Repairs on the Fly
I once had a boot lace snap while I was halfway through a hike. Paracord was way too thick to fit through the eyelets of my boots, but a quick length of tarred twine saved the day. It wasn't the prettiest fix, but because of that tacky coating, the laces didn't slip or loosen up the whole way back to the car.
The "Smell" and the Mess
Okay, let's be real for a second: tarred nylon twine has a very specific smell. Some people love it—it smells like old docks, woodsmoke, and adventure. Others think it smells like a chemical plant. It's that creosote-like scent that stays on your hands for a bit after you use it.
Also, it can leave a little bit of black residue on your fingers if you're working with it for a long time. It's not like you're getting covered in oil, but it's definitely there. If you're using it to tie something white or delicate, just be aware that it might leave a mark. Personally, I think the trade-off for the durability is well worth a little bit of "character" on my hands.
Why Not Just Use Paracord?
I get this question a lot. "Why bother with twine when I have a spool of 550 cord?"
The answer is mostly about bulk and stretch. Paracord is designed to stretch—that's why it's great for parachutes. But if you're trying to lash a fence together or tie down a load in the back of a truck, that stretch can be a nuisance. Tarred nylon twine has very little "give." When you pull it tight, it stays tight.
Also, paracord is thick. If you try to use it for small tasks, the knots end up being huge and bulky. Tarred twine allows for much neater, tighter work. Plus, it's significantly cheaper. You can get a massive spool of bank line for the price of a small bundle of high-quality paracord.
Tips for Working With It
If you're going to start using tarred nylon twine, here are a few things I've learned the hard way:
- Burn the ends: Just like any synthetic cord, it'll fray if you don't melt the tips. A quick hit with a lighter and a pinch (careful, it's hot!) will seal it up.
- Don't use your teeth: Seriously. The tar coating isn't something you want to be chewing on, and the nylon is surprisingly abrasive. Use a knife or snips.
- The "Twist" vs. "Braid": You can find this twine in both twisted and braided varieties. Twisted is more traditional and easier to "unlay" if you need thinner strands for sewing. Braided is a bit more expensive but it won't kinking or untwist on you as easily. I usually prefer braided for general gear, but twisted is better for survival kits.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, tarred nylon twine isn't some high-tech, space-age invention. It's an old-school solution that has stayed around because it simply works. Whether you're mending a fence, building a shelter, or just need a reliable string for a craft project that needs to last forever, it's hard to beat.
It's tough, it's grippy, and it smells like hard work. If you haven't added a roll of #18 bank line to your gear closet yet, do yourself a favor and pick one up. You'll find yourself reaching for it way more often than you'd expect. Just don't blame me when your garage starts smelling like a New England shipyard!